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Okay so I need some advice as far as our 350k, FHA loan with 3 % down goes. The first deal I received was thru some loan officer located out of Arizona who gave me a 6.5% rate with 2 points. I heard this was a horrible deal so I decided to shop around especially after hearing that you have 14 days from the first mortgage inquiry to shop around and have other lenders pull your report without it harming your credit because it will be considered one. I then received a quote yesterday thru quickenloans.com but after reading some of the questions and answers that were posted about others experiences I was very skeptical even though they gave me what seemed like a good or better rate than the first guy. For example they gave me a 5.6...% (there were two more numbers after the 6 can't remember) with 2 points or a 6.25% w no points. I am also interested in seller concession so closing cost and points wont be paid out of pocket. Not only am I skeptical about the stuff I read here about quickenloans but they are also asking for $350 committment fee that will be refunded at closing if we decide to close with them. So if we dont close with them then basically that money is non refundable, which has me feeling trapped and I dont really like feeling that way. What I dont want to happen is I agree to pay that committment fee and then at closing theres a whole bunch of other fees that I did not agree or know about and I back down and they keep my $350 fee. Which $350 is not going to kill me but who wants to give away money? So I decided to not pay that fee but I still have them in mind just in case. I called JP Morgan Chase bank and they approved me with different rates. They offered me 5.875% with 2.3..( theres two more numbers after the 3, forgot...again!) points and a 6.125% with 1.5 points. I know Chase is a reputable bank that has been around for a long time and I kind of trust them better then quicken loans but quicken loans does have the better rates so basically im stuck???? I would like some type of advice on what I should do if worst case senerio where it's either one or the other I have to choose from. I am still going to shop around because I know I can probably do better. Here are the basics: -annual combined income: a little over 100k yearly. -401k combined: 17,364 -been at our jobs over 2 years both. -combined monthly bills: a little under 1000.00 monthly. -all three credit scores for him: experian: 643, transunion: 634, equifax: 610 -mine: experian: 684, equifax: 672, transunion: 649 Thanks so much!
The only people bashing quickenloans are the large number of scammers around here. Since you have pretty bad credit and are getting a pretty high loan, that you will not even pay for yourself, I think both deals are pretty darn good. My loans are about the same, minus points, and I pay all of my bills. Quicken and Chase are both reputable, you have nothing to worry about.
Wow ... my best advice right now is NEVER EVER EVER pay any kind of fee to ANYONE to do your loan. It will be wasted money in many cases -- especially if you are uncomfortable with how things are progessing. An FHA loan is a good loan -- but the deals you have been quoted by Quicken will probably never come to the surface. Check out this site: Now ... my best suggestion ... I work for a national bank and would be more than happy to help you and give you an honest quote. As for a rate with or without points -- it all depends on how you want to structure the loan, and it should be your choice. Stay away from brokers -- most all of them will change things about your loan so that when you get to the closing table, you will be stuck. Go to a national lender/bank, go to your local bank or credit union. Your credit scores are average -- not good as one person wrote below. A GOOD credit score is a middle score above 700, preferably above 720 -- that's when you start getting the better rates. You have to use the lowest of the two middle scores, so in your case, you are getting qualified for a loan with a 634 middle score ... that's not bad, but it's not great either. Your best option is most likely going to be the FHA loan. FHA loans are fixed, with no prepayment penalties, and are government-backed loans. They are now starting to be credit score driven as far as the rates, but you should be able to get somewhere between 5.875 and 6.25% depending on how many points, if any, you wish to pay. Origination points are normally tax deductible, by the way, and if the seller is helping to pay closing costs, I would suggest you go with the cheaper rate and no more than 1% (1 point) ... FHA will NOT allow more than one point in origination anyway. Lender/bank fees should be no more than $1500. You will have to set up an escrow account for your taxes and insurance, and you will have title company fees, but again, if the seller is helping to pay for them, you don't have much to worry about. Email me if you would like a free, no obligation quote and true preapproval. email@example.com
Your credit scores are good, but try your best to get a loan with 0 points. they will come around and bit you in the @zz towards the end of your loan. Go to a big bank in your home town , and ask about a mortgage loan. they will be able to hel p you out better then enyone here will be able to. Also talk to your realistate agent, he/she should know of some great opertunities to help you out. About closing cost, make the seller pay them. If you pay them, then tell the seller to add something to your down payment, or even better ask for a clening allouance.
Use what God gave you. Common sense! As an FYI… per the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) , there is only one source for you to get a free credit report from all three credit repositories, “annualcreditreport.com”. not give anyone else your personal info without seeing them in person. Make sure to price out your loan with your LOCAL banks and mortgage brokers only. A lot people giving advice on here are also looking to give you a loan (it’s not advice, its advertising), if they are not local to you and you can’t get to them within 1 hour don’t fall for it. They say they are licensed in all 50 states, what does that mean? Which state do you have to look in first if something goes wrong? KEEP IT LOCAL; DON'T GET RIPPED-OFF BY SOMEONE Comer WHO KNOWS WHERE WHICH YOU WOULD HAVE NO DIRECT ACCESS TO. Remember Buddha's advice: "Believe nothing, no matter where you read it or who has said it, not even if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense." You are the only "expert" you can trust: All brokers, and every other loan officer guru giving advice here with a .com or contact me at the end is "selling" you something (it’s not advice, its advertising). Don't buy "it." When shopping for a mortgage, here are a few things to do to maximize your savings and time: 1. When asking for a Good Faith Estimate(GFE), tell each mortgage originator (lender) what interest rate to use so you can compare apples to apples (rate affects closing costs). This is probably a different thought process for you because you always shop interest rates on a mortgage right? Remember all mortgage originators have identical wholesale interest rates. If you shop the same interest rate among mortgage originators, it levels the playing field and discloses what they want to charge you for their time to originate and close your mortgage. It is similar to shopping for a car. Why does the exact same new car vary in cost from one dealership to the next? Some dealers want to make more profit than others. 2. Secure Good Faith Estimates from various mortgage originators within a 4 hour time frame (rate and pricing can change daily and even multiple times in one day). 3. Do not compare the prepaids, reserves, escrow, title charges, and government recording sections of the estimates; third part fees are not controlled by the mortgage originator. 4. Ask each mortgage originator to base the interest rate on a 30 day lock unless you need longer. 5. If the loan allows you to waive escrow (paying taxes & insurance yourself), let the mortgage originators know because this will affect closing costs. 6. If refinancing, let the mortgage originators know if you are pulling cash out. A cash-out refinance usually increases closing costs. Your Biggest Challenge The mortgage industry today has never been more unethical. The industry has produced several record-breaking years in a row regarding total origination and as a result, greed is driving the industry. Your biggest challenge is receiving a Good Faith Estimate that is provided to you in "Good Faith"! We spend more time showing consumers how mortgage originators are lying to them in regards to an estimate given! That’s right, lying! “Bait and switch” has become a prominent sales tool in the mortgage industry. Bait you in with a bogus estimate then switch things after you are hooked. This is so discouraging; banks and so called direct lenders have become some of the worst at this practice. Education is your biggest weapon against this practice. Take the time to fully understand closing costs and rates before proceeding. You should know exactly how much the mortgage originator is getting paid by all sources (no matter where it comes from, it's ultimately coming out of your pocket). Protect yourself by asking for and receiving prior to application and origination a written guarantee stating the TOTAL amount of compensation (YSP, rebates, commissions, kickbacks) that will be received and kept by the mortgage originator. This will help assure that your best interest is kept in mind. Originating a mortgage is a service, not a product; compensation should not be based on the loan amount or interest rate. All ethical, honest, upfront, transparent mortgage originators will be more than willing to provide you with a written total compensation guarantee in addition to the (GFE) Good Faith Estimate (focus on the word “Estimate” because that is exactly what it is, an estimate of charges) prior to originating your loan.