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Alright, right now I am running a 12" type r @ 800 watts RMS with one cap, i have some dimming of the lights, but no electrical problems. My new setup is going to be 2 type R's with a 1200 watts RMS hifonics amp and two 1 farad caps instead of just one. My alternator puts out 105 amps stock, is it really necessary to change the alternator and upgrade the wiring of the "Big 3" as well? Everyone said it is a good idea but is it absolutely necessary? Only reason I am asking is because it will probably cost another $800 by the time everything is said and done for that. Any comments are welcome, I am looking for all types of feedback and pros and cons. Thank you!
Don't waste your cash on Hifonics trash, they are not CEA-compliant, you would be lucky to get half of the advertised RMS wattage from that amp because its so over rated plus the fact that the wattage you do get from it will more than likely be distorted when it makes it to the subs most of the time with full size trucks and/or suvs you don't need to think about upgrading the alternator until you start getting towards 1200watts RMS (that amp wont do it) because they have bigger alternator than the ones found on most cars a easy test is to turn on the sounds and play something with deep bass at about 3/4 volume and turn on your ac and/or rear defrost, if your lights dim noticeably or your RPMs drop then you need to upgrade your charging system i would upgrade all of the wires in the charging system first and if the problem persists i would then upgrade the alternator- those caps are a waste of cash also, you would be a lot better off with a High Current Car Audio Power Cell (i recommend Kinetik brand (here are some subs are from a CEA-compliant company and the amp is not so its almost impossible to correctly match your subs and amp because you have no idea how many watts the amp is really pushing out and that could be a problem If you send too much power to your sub, you risk damaging it. The cone of the speaker and the mechanical parts that make it move may break under the stress. Surprisingly, too little power can also damage your subwoofer — in fact, it's actually more common than damage caused by overpowering. When the volume is turned up and the amp doesn't have enough power, the signal becomes distorted, or "clipped." This distorted signal can cause parts of the speaker to overheat, warp and melt. Not good! You don't have to match speaker and amp wattages exactly. An amp with a higher output than the speaker's rating won't necessarily damage the speaker — just turn the amp down a bit if you hear distortion from the sub and don't run the speaker at extremely loud volumes for lengthy periods. Likewise, you'll be Wyoming with a lower powered amp if you keep the volume down and don't feed a distorted signal to the sub. here are the CEA-compliant brands Alpine (highly recommend) Bazooka (don't like their subs) Blaupunkt (don't like their subs) Clarion Eclipse Infinity (highly recommend) JBL JL Audio (very good but over priced) JVC Kenwood (don't like their subs) Kicker (the best in my opinion) MTX (highly recommend) Pioneer Polk Audio (highly recommend) PPI Rockford Fosgate (highly recommend) Sony (don't like their subs)
Look around...you should be able to get your alt rebuilt to a higher amperage for fairly cheap. as for the cap, get rid of them....they will not help your dimming lights. do the big 3 and get a good battery (optima or kinetik) after you do this, see if they still dim, if they do they upgrade your alt. also what inktown said it right....hifonics are power hungey, inefficient, dirty amps. howeve, i also don't like many of the CEA compliant ones either..... check out these sites for amps:
Start with the big 3. If you still have dimming check to see what kind of dimming it is by playing a long bass note. If it dims and stays dim you need a bigger alt. If it dims but becomes bright again its just lag and the caps will fix that, nothin bad