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We have invented the internet .... Thous we have good sources to help us research ... to look for a good trade-in value and/or for a good price on the new ford explorer, look at these websites for research... ( edmunds.com - kbb.com - vehix.com - craigslist.com ) when you understand what the average numbers are , tell the dealer your opinion ... the trick is to know what your talking about ( invoice - blue books - incentives - rebates - special offers, such as financing or leasing ) AND... your suppose to low ball them to let them know you mean business... All salesman are lazy and will answer any question you will ask them - keep in mind that it doesn't hurt to ask! If buying a used car = check carfax ... do not buy any carfax report - every dealership has an account already - take advantage of that... If financing , check out..... bankrate.com ..... This website has free calculators to understand what any monthly payment will be at any rate , term and size of loan .... It's good to compare apples to apples ... Plus , every consumer has the right to check with other lenders before that dealership sends your loan to their banks ... Be careful shop around because some dealerships make money in financing... If you put a lot of money down - no need for gap insurance = pays the loan off to the exact penny if insurance doesn't at a total loss of car ( stolen - crash total ) About the warranty If used , ask the dealer to tell you what the recon was = reconditioning costs and reparis to make ready for resale ) the carfax will help you understand when the factory warranty is up ... Make sure you know what the coverages are and for how long it is for .... Do not get a certified warranty - If a dealer is offering a certified car ask them to decertify it and get about $1,000 to $1800 knocked off..( depending on model ) which is usually enough to buy atleast a 2 year vs. 24k additional miles service agreement ...way more coverage in service agreements ( electrical things ...) Then ask or know what are the deductibles per repair ... Every used car service agreements have those ... They are similar to insurance policies ... If your repair is less then deductible you pay out of pocket ... Usuaklly the average deductible per repair is $100 .... Example ... If engine and transmission go bad ... you pay $200 ... then you get them fixed ... make sure you know who is offering the warranty ... If buying a ford make sure you can go to the nearest ford dealership for repairs = recommended ..... Don't get 3rd party = usually through lenders... they suck and take longer to make claims ... Make sure you fully understand what parts are used ... example ... If engine goes bad ... do they buy you a whole new one ... Or rebuild it with cheap parts... i want to say all service agreements come with towing - trip interuption etc... benefits come as a standard plus for you check that as well Good luck Feel free to ask away!
Whether the vehicle is being sold "as is" or with a warranty; what percentage of the repair costs a dealer will pay under the warranty; that spoken promises are difficult to enforce; to get all promises in writing; to keep the Buyers Guide for reference after the sale; the major mechanical and electrical systems on the car, including some of the major problems you should look out for; and to ask to have the car inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy. When you buy a used car from a dealer, get the original Buyers Guide that was posted in the vehicle, or a copy. The Guide must reflect any negotiated changes in warranty coverage. It also becomes part of your sales contract and overrides any contrary provisions. For example, if the Buyers Guide says the car comes with a warranty and the contract says the car is sold "as is," the dealer must give you the warranty described in the Guide.
Most of the time "used" means you are entering into an "as is and where is" deal, and it's on YOU to make sure you are getting what you think you are. Have your mechanic check it over before you buy it so there will be no surprises later. Anything the salesman promises that is not in written form on your bill of sale doesn't count. You will get a bill of sale, showing the amount you are paying, and with a used car you will get a clear title or an indication that the title is going to who ever is doing your financing for you. You should get a temporary plate so you will able to drive it for 30 days while waiting for your new registration. DO NOT FORGET to have insurance in place before you drive it an inch!
You usually have to pay extra for any warranty. When you buy a used car ..well..be careful, because all you get is THE CAR. Look around for financing, usually the dealer is going to cost you more. I doubt you will get much in writing, with out paying for it. Don't forget to join AA.. then you can get road side assistance and insurance deals.
When buying a used car that is not under factory warranty, you wont get much of a dealership warranty. You will usually get 90 days unless you purchase the extended warranty. if you are wanting full warranty, service, roadside assistance, etc, you need to buy new.
All these items are negotiable when buying a used car from a dealership. Just make sure that any promises that the salesman made are Borger WRITING in the final version of the sales contract before you sign it! If it's not on paper, it didn't happen, and you can't prove it in court (if necessary.)
Depending on how many miles the car has, if it is over 60k they will give you a 90 day warranty. You have an option go buy an extended warranty from a 3rd party company. Google it...you will find lots of results, also the dealer ship would know. When i go to buy a car, I always take my OBDII reader and check for codes, just to make sure the dealer aint trying to pull a fast one on me. And if they say..no u cant...that means, you say thanks..good day...I"M OUT...
Actually you don't even get a 90 day warranty. When you buy it "as is" that's exactly what it is. Some dealers are better then others and honor what they have sold, but I don't think by law any are required to.
Since you are getting a ford exploder I would suggest you get them to throw in some fire insurance!
The onli thing tat u should look out for is the final paper. look at the rate to make sure tatz wat they offer u, and look at the amount tat ur financing to make sure tat is the amount, cause they do cheat on these things... dont listen to wat the dealer say they often lie bout a lot of stuff.